Wine Country Trip: Part 2 Napa

Recently returned from a 5 day trip to the California wine country of Napa and Sonoma counties. This was a personal/pleasure trip with professional overtones (and perks), as my husband is "in the trade". Splitting the trip review into 4 sections:

 Part 1. Sonoma

Part 2. Napa

Part 3. Gardens
Part 4. Biking

While both areas produce great wine, enjoy an excellent climate, are incredibly beautiful, and have more than their share of wonderful restaurants; there is a slightly different feel to the two counties. Sonoma has more of the agrarian, and almost hippy feel; while Napa seems more upscale. Or nouveau riche or something. Both are great in their own way. I'd be content living in either.

So, it seemed appropriate that upon leaving the quaint Korbel vineyard house in Sonoma, we would spend the next two nights at the BV Rutherford House...or better put mansion. The Rutherford House is a 10,000 sq foot mansion Chateau and Estates (owners of Beaulieu Vineyards) uses for hospitality and training.

The first floor is set up for entertaining, wine tasting and other large public events.

The second floor contains five guest suites, a communal living/relaxing space and office/work area. We were staying in the BV suite - others were the Carneros suite, de Latour suite, Hewitt suite, Sterling suite and Rutherford suite. All names rich in Napa culture (not to mention Chateau and Estates wines).

I loved the kitchen and outside spaces.

We had this all to ourselves. Literally. The security guard had given us keys to the house and our suite when we arrived on Wednesday, and did not see another person in the house until we were loading the car Friday morning.

In our previous 2 nights at Korbel we'd discovered some great local cheeses (both in our well stocked kitchen and at the Duck Club), and in addition to bringing the leftovers from Korbel, we'd made a stock-up run at a fabulous market in Sebastopol in Sonoma county - Andy's Produce. Each night I'd put together a wine and cheese tray, and we'd debate front veranda or back deck. The veranda won. I mean, how could it not with this view.

We enjoyed some great meals in Napa. Breakfast each morning at Pacific Blues, outside of which I noticed this delivery truck. And was able to enjoy my fav, Blue Moon with lunch at Hurley's. Where I devoured the two course "Vintners special" of a watermelon feta salad and fettuccine with diver scallops and a saffron cream sauce. OH my. But the most memorable meal of the whole trip was at Chef Michael Chiarello's Bottega. Yes, I admit to being a Top Chef fan girl - and this will make my 3rd "master's" restaurant meal. The short ribs were to die for. Amazing. I must go back. Not to mention I earned a foursquare Top Chef badge for checking in here. BONUS!

We only visited one winery in Napa - Provenance Vineyards. Having the opportunity to taste 3 vintages of Hewitt vineyard Cabernet side by side. Yum. A bottle of the incredible 2006 Hewitt Cabernet followed us home as did their Winemakers Reserve Blend and a couple of bottles of the estate Sauvignon Blanc. Great stuff - plus their Director of Winemaking, Tom Renaldi, is an avid cyclist , both mountain and road. In fact one of our servers was telling us how Tom was trying to organize a ride from Napa to Tahoe. Now that would be one heck of a ride! We may not be up to such a ride - but a couple of Provenance Vineyard bike jerseys also made their way into our suitcases.

The rest of our Napa days were spent on bikes...in both Sonoma and Napa. We'll get to that in part 4. Next up the gardens.......

Wine Country Trip: Part 1 Sonoma

700+ pictures later, I 'm back from vacation. 5 days in wine country with my husband. A personal/pleasure trip with professional overtones (and perks), as my husband is "in the trade".

As the effects of so much good food, good drink (wines and of course, a beer or two), fresh air and sunshine wear off; I've been slogging through the pictures trying to figure out how to organize a blog post,a trip review. Realize that *a* blog post won't cut it, but probably neither will posting 700 pictures - which even with editing out the crap ones is still close to 600. Decided on four posts:

1.  Part 1. Sonoma
   Part 2. Napa
   Part 3. Gardens

   Part 4. Biking

At least that's my intent at this minute. This summer has not been great for getting all my mental ideas into blog posts, so we'll see how it goes.

We'd flown into San Francisco on an evening flight, a delayed evening flight, arriving close to 11pm, and spending the night in the airport area. The San Francisco morning proved cool and foggy making conditions for viewing and picture taking at the Golden Gate Bridge somewhat less than ideal.



However, as we drove north the fog cleared, and by the time we arrived at Sonoma-Cutrer winery, for our first appointment/tour of the trip, the weather was perfect. Located in the rolling hills west of 101 at Windsor, Sonoma-Cutrer is known for their chardonnays, which are done in a Burgundian style. For the last few vintages they have been producing Pinot Noir, staying true to the Burgundy theme. We were met by Scott, the tour center director, who first took us through the vineyards, explaining their trellis styles, philosophy and general winery history.


All around us the views were stunning.


Next up a quick winery tour, where the workers were busy preparing for harvest; cleaning and moving barrels.


Finally, Scott took us through the wines. These have been some of my favorites since I sold them in my Kentucky distributor days in the late 90's. It was a treat to sit out on their patio overlooking the tournament croquet courts (who knew the North American Croquet championships were played here each year - not I, not until this day).


Sonoma-Cutrer has an excellent line-up of wines. Until recently, they were only open to the trade. Our tour was arranged as members of the trade - so I'm unsure what the public sees on their tours. Nonetheless, if you love California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown and produced in a Burgundian style, I highly recommend a visit!




Leaving Sonoma-Cutrer, we headed west out River Road toward Guerneville to Korbel Champagne Cellars where we were staying for the next two nights in their vineyard guest house. I'd stayed in this house in '95 or '96 while on a trip with the KY distributor - the only female manager on the trip, I had the house to myself, while the men stayed in the larger guest house. I love Korbel, not only for their méthode champenoise champagnes, but also for their gardens (more on those in part 3). The vineyard house is surrounded by a small portion of these gardens.

Korbel has a rich history with the Korbel brothers immigrating to California in the late 1800's, fleeing Habsburg rule in Czechoslovakia. Originally purchasing the land for the timber, they first moved into brandy making, and then champagnes. Both of which they still produce today. The tour offers glimpses of both the history of the Korbel family (which includes the first female winery president in California) and the true process of making champagne known as méthode champenoise. And of course, samples of their excellent wines. On property is an excellent deli with ample picnic area, a charming gift shop, and the not to be missed opportunity for garden tours. Korbel - for the champagne lover, brandy fan, or gardener, it is a must visit.



While in Sonoma, we enjoyed several great meals, two in Bodega Bay - dinner at the Duck Club and lunch at Lucas Wharf.

We were charmed by the historic railroad district of Santa Rosa - home of Peanuts creator, Charles Schultz. Here we had a fabulous dinner at Lococo's Cucina Rustica.

And in our family tradition of documenting accomodations, the charming vineyard house. Loved the view from the breakfast room, the well stocked kitchen, know my Mom would love that each bedroom included a flashlight. The hospitality and graciuosness of everyone at Korbel can't be beat, and for that I say a huge thank you!

Sonoma County, the wineries of Korbel and Sonoma-Cutrer - a great start to a great trip......